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Description - Fashioning the Bourgeoisie by Philippe Perrot

When department stores like Le Bon Marche first opened their doors in mid-nineteenth-century Paris, shoppers were offered more than racks of ready-made frock coats and crinolines. They were given the chance to acquire a lifestyle as well - that of the bourgeoisie. Wearing proper clothing encouraged proper behaviour, went the prevailing belief. Available in English translation, this extensive study explains a culture's sociology through the seemingly simple issue of the choice of clothing. Philippe Perrot shows, through a tour of the rise of the ready-made fashion industry in France, how clothing not only reflects but also inculcates beliefs, values and aspirations. By the middle of the 19th century, men were prompted to disdain the decadent and gaudy colours of the pre-Revolutionary period and wear unrelievedly black frock coats suitable to the manly and serious world of commerce. Their wives and daughters, on the other hand, adorned themselves in bright colours and often uncomfortable and impractical laces and petticoats, to signal the status of their family. The consumer pastime of shopping was born, as women spent their spare hours keeping up their middle-class appearance, or creating one by judicious purchases. As Paris became the fashion capital and bourgeois modes of dress and their inherent attitudes became the ruling lifestyle of Western Europe and America, clothing and its "civilizing" tendencies were imported to non-Western colonies as well. In the face of what Perrot calls this "levelling process", the upper classes tried to maintain their stature and right to elegance by supporting what became the high fashion industry. Detailed and provocative, this study reveals the sources of many of our contemporary rules of fashion and etiquette.

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